What does Eye Cream do?

Eye creams reduce or even erase the signs of aging: fine lines, wrinkles, and dark circles. But aren’t eye creams just more-expensive moisturizers in a smaller package? Not necessarily, says dermatologist Patricia Farris, MD, a clinical associate professor at Tulane University School of Medicine. “Eye creams are formulated specifically for the delicate skin around the eye, so they tend to be thicker. They contain more oil than a regular facial lotion, and they have a lot of active ingredients aimed at the problems we see around the eyes,” Farris explains. The skin around the eyes is more fragile, more prone to dryness, and quicker to show age and fatigue. Squinting and constant movement of the eyes also hasten the appearance of lines and wrinkles, and fluids collect under the eyes and cause puffiness and dark circles. Eye creams can address some of these issues. Fine lines and wrinkles come from both sun damage and your skin making less collagen as you age. Collagen helps maintain skin’s elasticity. Vitamin C, peptides, and retinol have boosted collagen production, studies of skin creams show. Ceramide and hyaluronic acid also help; these are moisturizers that help prevent water loss in the skin and improve elasticity. “Retinol is one of my personal favorites,” Farris says. But it can be harsh on some skin. RoC Retinol Correxion Sensitive Eye Cream ($22.99) contains a gentle dose of retinol along with hyaluronic acid. Dark circles under the eyes come from genes, sun damage, age, and blood build-up. Sodium ascorbate, or vitamin C, can thicken the skin and help conceal dark circles after about 6 months. Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, and kojic acid can lighten dark circles. Farris likes Olay Regenerist Eye Regenerating Cream Plus Touch of Concealer ($21.99), which contains vitamin B3 to lighten dark circles and peptides to boost collagen. Puffiness is a buildup of fluid and blood under the eyes. Some studies show that caffeine can help circulation, which could reduce puffiness. Other studies show that cold temperatures are just as effective to treat puffiness. That’s why some people refrigerate their eye creams. There are two dueling factions when it comes to eye creams: the believers and the, well, nonbelievers. Some women and men swear by the stuff, dutifully patting expensive potions around their eyes twice a day with hopes of easing their fine lines, dark circles, and puffiness. The naysayers adhere to the notion that whatever they’re using to moisturize their face simply has to be good enough for their eyes, too. It can only help … right? We wish there was a straightforward answer. When it comes to eye creams, the answer seems to vary depending on who you talk to, which articles you read, and what you’re hoping to accomplish. Simply put, most specialists believe there are certain issues that eye creams can help treat, but some concerns, no matter how much cash you shell over to Sephora, are untouchable. There’s ongoing contention about eye creams’ efficacy, and Dr. Katrina Good, DO, of Good Aesthetics in Maine, is one of the naysayers. “In my experience, eye cream is not very helpful,” she says. “Even [high-end lines like] Skin Medical, which I carry! The creams you use on your face are just as helpful as eye cream, regardless of name brand.” But there’s no question that the skin around your eyes is more fragile than the rest of your face. It’s best to be extra careful with it. “This skin is some of the thinnest and most delicate, and is also subject to constant micromovements,” explains Dr. Helen Knaggs, vice president of Global Research and Development at Nu Skin in Utah. For this reason, some experts believe it’s better to use a specially designed cream or gel for the eye. “Many regular facial creams or moisturizers may irritate the thin skin [there],” adds Dr. Gina Sevigny of Ormond Beach Dermatology in Florida. The fragility of the area also explains why it’s often the first part of your face to start showing signs of age. It’s natural for our skin to become drier over time. Not surprisingly, a lack of hydration is also a wrinkle-causing factor. According to Dr. Knaggs, “It makes sense that a moisturizer in this area appears to benefit dehydrated skin.” As the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology notes, some studies indicateTrusted Source that certain anti-aging eye treatments can, indeed, help improve under-eye smoothness and reduce the depth of larger wrinkles. Kerrin Birchenough, an esthetician and makeup artist in Portland, Oregon, is an eye cream devotee herself. She uses a retinol-based SkinMedica cream. But, she admits, “I can’t say [definitively that] eye creams really work — but I can say that certain ingredients work.” Though there’s no magic extract that will stop the aging process altogether, a good eye cream can help diminish the look of wrinkles. But, as Birchenough noted, only if it has the right components. She suggests an eye product with retinol to boost cell turnover. She prefers gel formulations because they’re lighter and more easily absorbed.
“As we get older, our skin cells don’t reproduce as quickly,” Birchenough explains. “Retinol helps speed up the process.” Dr. Sevigny suggests ceramides for moisturization, though she doesn’t consider it a long-term solution for fine lines. Birchenough likes products with hyaluronic acid to help reduce the look of wrinkles. “It’s more of an immediate plumping fix,” she notes. No matter which product you choose to use, you should always use it with caution. Should you develop extreme redness, irritation, and swelling, you should discontinue its use immediately. “The younger an individual starts to exhibit bags and puffiness would be an indication that there may be a hereditary component,” says Dr. Knaggs, explaining that bags and dark circles begin as a result of inflammation triggered by UV exposure from the sun, free radical oxidation, stress, fatigue, and allergies. “The microvessels in this area become permeable and can leak fluid, which pools under the eye,” says Dr. Knaggs. This swelling usually subsides when the body reabsorbs the fluids, though this can sometimes require a few weeks of waiting time.