Step 5
Assemble the Bed Frame
FH15DJA_554_50_004-1200 murphy bed
FAMILY HANDYMAN
Attach the head rail, foot rail and side rails to the inner bed frame. Cut two pieces of plywood for the bed face panels (A). Trim one side and the top edge (where the foot of the bed will be) of each panel with 1/4-in. edging. Lay the two panels face down on your bench and ■■■■ the two pieces together so the hardwood edges are to the outside. Lay the assembled bed frame on top of the panels and attach with screws. Flip the entire bed frame over so you can cover the face panels with false doors and drawers.
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Step 6
Add False Doors and Drawers
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FAMILY HANDYMAN
With a helper, carefully turn over the bed frame assembly so it’s face up on your bench. Rip the stock for the faux panels and drawers (UU–BBB) to width. Use 1/8-in. spacers to create gaps between the faux doors and drawers and attach with glue and brads or pins. Be sparing with the glue to avoid squeeze-out, which is tough to clean up. Go ahead and mount the pulls and ■■■■■. Be careful to avoid the inner frame structure when placing your hardware. Remove all the hardware until after the cabinet is finished. Cut and fit the mattress supports (X). Don’t screw these into place until final assembly.
If this project is a little too complicated for you, check out these six woodworking projects you can make with just a jigsaw.
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Step 7
Build the Shelf Units
FH15DJA_554_50_015-1200 murphy bed
FAMILY HANDYMAN
Cut the bed cabinet plywood parts (B, C, E). Glue and clamp 3/4-in. hardwood edging (MM) on the bed cabinet verticals. Add 1/4-in. edging to the top and bottom edge of the headboard. Lay out and drill for the hardware. If you plan to add the light fixtures, now is the time to cut the 2-7/8-in.- diameter holes in the bed header panel. Follow the instructions in the kit. Screw and glue the mounting cleats (JJJ) to the ends of the header board. Add the header front and back (BB) according to the instructions. Wait to assemble the bed cabinet.
The bookcases on either side of the bed cabinet are assembled with the same screw and cleat system used for the bed cabinet. Cut the plywood parts (F, N–R, U) and cleat stock (■■■–NNN). Cut 1/4-in.-deep by 3/8-in.- wide rabbets along the back edge of the middle and bottom shelves and on the cabinet sides between the two shelves. Assemble the side cabinets with screws.
Cut the face frame and pullout parts for the side cabinet (DD-HH). Build the face frames with pocket screws or dowels. Clamp and glue the face frames to the cabinets. Cut and glue the hardwood edge on the middle shelf. Build and mount the pullout. Add the faux panel frames (CCC–EEE) to the doors. Mount the doors. If you’re using Euro-style cup hinges, be sure to order the ones made for thick doors. Cut and fit the backs (Y).
Step 8
Build the Fascia Boxes
FH15DJA_554_50_020-1200 murphy bed
FAMILY HANDYMAN
Cut the parts for the three cabinet top and fascia assemblies (D, K–M, S, T, V, W, PP–TT). Assemble the fascia boxes with screws and glue. Cut and fit the 1/4-in. oak fascia with mitered corners. Trim the 1/2-in. plywood in the same manner. Attach the fascia trim board to the bottom of the fascia boxes, then screw the box down onto the top of each cabinet. If you’re using lights, use a jigsaw to make a 4-in.-diameter hole in the bottom of each fascia trim board. Cut the top parts (D, M, CC). Cut a 15-degree bevel on the top trim on the table saw. Cut and miter the top trim to fit. Wait to attach the tops until installation. Drill ventilation holes in the cabinet tops for the lights.
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Step 9
Assemble the Bed Cabinet
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FAMILY HANDYMAN
You’ll need at least one helper for this phase of the project. The Murphy bed can be disassembled as far as you need to get the bed into the room. The only thing remaining that’s large and cumbersome is the bed frame. If the bed has to wind its way through a narrow staircase or other obstacle, consider leaving off the middle drawer and the two horizontal dividers on the faux front. These are the elements that bridge the two face panels and once installed cannot be easily dismantled for moving. You can reassemble the bed frame in the room and add the drawer and horizontal dividers at that point.
Before installation, reattach all the bed hardware but leave the bed stops, pulls and handles off for now. Place a pad on the floor about 2 ft. in front of the wall where the bed will be mounted. Lay the bed frame face down on the pad with the head of the bed frame toward the wall. Mount the bed cabinet sides to the bed frame on the metal pivots. At this point, the cabinet verticals should also be face down alongside the bed frame. Attach the headboard with screws.
Step 10
Screw the Cabinet to the Wall
FH15DJA_554_50_303-1200 [murphy bed
FAMILY HANDYMAN
With a helper on the other sid](Murphy Bed Ikea - #20 by sohag)e, lift the bed cabinet up to the vertical position. Be sure the leg support is folded up before you lift the cabinet. Then attach the bed header assembly to the top. Next, lift the bed frame into the vertical position while your helper holds the cabinet. Be careful: Until the cabinet is attached to the wall, you need someone holding the bed in place and keeping the cabinet steady.
With the bed cabinet and frame vertical, it’s time to attach the gas springs. Snap the ends of the springs onto the ball stud plates on the bed frame and the cabinet verticals. The springs are marked with a “This End Up” sign; follow the directions carefully. Attach the bed stops from inside the cabinet. With the bed held in place by the gas springs, go ahead and move the cabinet up against the wall. Mark the stud locations just above the bed header and attach with screws.
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Step 11
Add the Side Cabinets
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FAMILY HANDYMAN
Slide the bookcases in position and attach to the bed cabinet. All that’s left is to remount the crowns and add the tops. Go ahead and pull the bed frame down and swing the leg supports to the floor. Without the mattress, the bed will want to close back up. Add a little weight to it to hold it down while you attach the two 1/4-in. plywood mattress supports to the inner frame. Add the elastic retaining straps and you’re ready to set the mattress into place.
See 56 brilliant woodworking tips from our readers and editors.
12 Money-Saving Murphy Bed Projects
Using Products from Ikea, Rockler, and More
Written by Deirdre Sullivan
Updated 09/17/20
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A brand-new fold-up Murphy bed purchased commercially and installed by pros can easily cost more than $3,000—and that’s not counting whatever mattress you pair with the bed. But a piece of furniture designed to save on space shouldn’t have to drain your bank savings.
What Is a Murphy Bed?
A Murphy bed pulls or folds down from against the wall or inside a closet.
Here are 12 DIY Murphy bed projects that won’t torpedo your bank account. Some of these projects use ordinary building materials available at any home center, while others feature mechanical hardware or other materials purchased from specialty retailers and used in various ways to create fold-up beds. Various IKEA product hacks make for especially ingenious DIY Murphy beds.
Did you know? The fold-down Murphy bed is named after its inventor, William Murphy, who applied for the patent around 1900. Living in San Francisco where the local moral code frowned upon a woman entering a man’s bedroom, Murphy’s fold-down invention allowed his one-room apartment to serve as a parlor in which he could entertain friends of either gender. Although other forms of fold-up bed already existed, it was Murphy who invented the pivoting, counterbalanced design that caused his name to become attached to all hidden, fold-up beds.